Light in the end of silk road OR Silk Road AND crocheted corridor

Keti Mikeladze

Production of threads and cloth dates back to the ancient times. No one knows who managed to draw out the first thread from cocoon and how it was.

Nevertheless, China is known to be the motherland of cocoons. Who made the first thread from the wool; how could one manage to spin a thread from needled pile of cotton fruit. I wonder what was the way of producing cloth worn by the Egyptians, Romans, Asians or, finally, Georgians thousand of years ago?
Ancient data testify to the importance of textile industry in the economy of countries. Its history is interesting as much as the twentieth century period at the time of invention of the first locomative, which signified the beginning of a new industrial epoch (all machines as well as looms started to work faster). On the other hand, this technical leap drew away thousands of weavers from the hand manufacture.
Textile production, mainly, deals in the production of silk, cotton and wool. Later on, man-made fiber was invented. It was added to all the three types of threads and served to increase textile assortment and its stability.
Textile production in Georgia dates back to the 40-50th years. We will study its development consecutively and will give an example from the history of other countries (many historical facts are given in the ten-volume book “History of mankind” issued in Petersburg).
Silk was the first object of trade in Asia. Chinese emperor’s wife Khuan-Di patronized silkworm breeding. Herodothe described journey where the main accent was made on silk road, but not on China. In the beginning of the first millenium, merchants were, mainly, interested in different points of the trade road – Samarkand, Fergana, Su-chjou. The trade road was often attacked by Huns and other nomadic tribes. Merchants sought for new safe ways. In the II century b.c. the Chinese emperor Chjan-Tsan said it was easier to trade in the southern way.
We should also point out to the fact that the Irish and Persians strove for supremacy in the trade of Asian countries, too. New cities came into being that simultaneously served as a market.
Sooner or later, the silk worm would penetrate into other countries. It was supposed first to spread in Turkey and afterwards in Byzantium. The latter thus tried to strike a blow to the supremacy of Persian merchants.
In our imagination “the old Georgians” had incessant fights with each other and liked noisy meals. Yet, the real businesspeople undeservedly have kept staying in the background. For instance, 5000 tons of silk cocoons grown in Imereti in the XIX-th century were exported to Marcel. Organizer of this business was a certain Tsereteli. Present owners of the Kutaisi Union or the shareholders’ company ‘Silk” as it is called nowadays call it to mind. Perhaps, many data about businesspeople in Georgia failed to reach us. In the Soviet period the whole western and eastern part of Georgia dealt in silkworm breeding. It served as a solid additional help for peasants. When Asian Republics formed part of the USSR, the demand for their textile industry became so interrelated that it was even hard to imagine separation of this mechanism.
Silk and “white gold” in the recent past.
Briefly about the former republics: silk worm breeding and cotton growing is spread in Uzbekistan. Here engineering industry was oriented, mainly, on cotton harvesting and grading. Kashakski region is sown with thousands of hectors of cotton. Only Japan and China outdo Uzbekistan in the production of silk. The Silk Road also passed the ancient Kirghiz city of Osh. A big union for the production of silk was located in the same city. And in Frunze there is an industrial complex for the silk production that uses local raw materials.
Textile production held the first place in domestic manufacture of Tadjikistan. Here thousands of tons of cotton were processed and thread was produced. The first big silk-mill was located in the city of Leninabad.
Turkmenistan is not behind others, either. Construction of grandiose irrigation canal in the Kara-Kum desert made it possible to grow cotton. The silk road went through Turkmenistan, too. Turkmenistan is supposed to surpass Iran and Afghanistan taken together.
Apart from silk dyeing and cotton-growing factories in Azerbaijan there were also factories of man-made fiber (kinds of man-made fiber: rayon, lavsan, nitron are produced in the result of mineral oil processing).
Tsarist Russia was well aware of the significance of southern countries: the countries rich in reserves of oil, gas, coal, cotton and silk worm breeding were annexed to Russia in the XIX-th century. As we see, Russia tried to surpass Europe where textile industry has been developed already since the X-th century. Cotton and wool produce was dominant in British export. In the XVIII-th Russia owned some branches of textile industry, in the XIX-th century it mastered the raw materials source of southern countries. At this time the number of spinning looms ran to six thousand.
“The red century of silkworm breeders”
Despite the fact that our country represented a great part of silk road, we were not the only clever and rich ones, though we held one of the first places in textile production of the Soviet Union. Thread-dyeing factories were built in Kutaisi, Honi, Ozurgeti, Samtredi. Distribution of cadres in all textile factories was also in the subordination to the Union because the Georgians tried to stay in the republic with the help of their acquaintances and to avoid “transference” to Russia.
The Kutaisi silk factory produced a wide range of fabric as well as used man-made fiber. For instance, if it was planned to produce 19-20 mln. meters of fabric, 90 % was sold in the Russian market; the domestic market retained only 10%.
In 1994, after the people went through the international strife in Samachablo, Abkhazian war, clang of “Mkhedrions'” weapons, the Russian market was lost for Georgia…There is one and the same situation in all textile manufactures: half-ruined production. This branch used to provide employment, mainly, to women with secondary education and of different social layers. Perhaps, it would seem unfair to those who has worked hard for 30-35 years by sacrificing their health. Yet, in that time families did not have to care much about setting their children on their feet. Silk worm breeding, cocoon growing and monotonous work in the enterprise did not require a special education.
In 1998-2000, the Kutaisi “Silk” tried to resume growing and sale of silk cocoons. The population received 2 Laries for a kilogram of cocoon. Strange as it may seem, the Chinese expressed the wish to purchase cocoons at 4 dollars per kilo. Yet, some peasants were skeptical to this matter. When comparing present prices with the former ones they address me in their usual dialect: “Is it a price -some 2 laries? We could buy houses through silkworm breeding before. They receive 8 laries per kilo – and why are we paid so little? Do you think it is easy to grow cocoons?”. Yet, what can we do? It is not easy to find a customer and send cocoons to China, either. Small commerce is not to some people’s liking and they dream of past scales.
As far as we know, the Telavi Silk-Dyeing factory does not function any more. The population lost its interest in silkworm breeding. Yet, silk worm breeding is spread in some places, f.e., in Akhmeta.
As for silk cloth, it is rather difficult to produce. As a rule, the customer is either insolvent or a “cheat” or he prefers imported goods as, f.e., Ministry of Defense. Collaborators of silk-dyeing industrial complex refer to the past as a fairy-tale: “He who traded in more remains of silk threads and had a big work experience received Japanese technique. We sent these remains to Japan and received refrigerators, TV sets through barter. There was not enough Georgian silk. We received silk from the Middle East. In fact, all of us are shareholders. However, there is disorder in the country, everything is being plundered; there were non-corrosive stones, jet parts..”
Is it a coincidence or diversion?
People who deal in silkworm breeding say that 1965 was an especially unsuccessful year for this branch. That year parasites and illnesses brought damage to mulberry trees. Some say there is nothing surprising in it that trees are ill in other countries, too. But why could we fight this phenomenon successfully before 1965 and why could not we do anything this year? Prophylactic and medical supplies were exported from Germany and Russia. They were distributed in a centralized way and did not cost as much as to be plundered. Most silkworm breeders consider it to be a pre-scheduled diversion from other countries. Proceeding from this logic, prohibition of Georgian silkworm breeding was of interest of all countries that dealt in this business. .. Givi Jokharidze, professor of textile faculty of Tbilisi University speaks on this matter: Young branches (sprouts) are infected with disease that becomes especially widespread in the warmth. The infected tree must be cut down at the root. Tree branches must be cut for prophylaxis in the spring before the growth of young sprouts. At that time there appear bacteria; trees used to be sheared in April, which, certainly, was late. It is difficult to say whether or not there was specific knowledge that was, probably, left unapplied or this matter must have been viewed as unimportant. Somehow or other silk cocoons have been imported from other republics for years. Armenia abandoned active silkworm breeding 40 years ago, China “outdid itself”; it began to grow 700 tons of cocoons a year and “bombarded” Asia and Europe with its production. That is why Armenia considered silkworm breeding an unprofitable business.. For example, Iran grew 1000 tons of cocoons a year and made 100 tons of natural silk thread out of them. G. Jokharadze came across interesting news on Internet: “Iran inquired at the way of receiving qualitative thread. We do not have as big cocoons as yours. We contacted them. They suggested us that we should send cocoons to them so that they could make thread and send it back to us”. I started to give a thought to business plan. It is not easy to launch a new business nowadays. Everyone “pokes its nose” into others’ affairs. Yet, I have to think of a new business and not about inquisitive persons. At that time, minister of Justice started reforms in prisons. The “prisoners” are a “ready team” to be involved in the work with silk cocoons. Mulberry trees are no problem, either. Besides, I could pay them for their work… By this time Saakashvili retired. The idea was up in the air. I had a project: silk for three days. Some non-government organization took an interest in it (I can not exactly call to mind its name). They looked at the patterns. I was introduced to a certain German, Gunter by name. I am not exactly aware of the level of silk cloth production in Germany. The German is still thinking… This non-government organization acting as a mediator offers me to patent my technological discoveries (commercial secret) abroad and to sell my patent to them. I have not made up my mind yet. Besides, the German is nowhere to be seen, either…”
It is unlikely that the German will be shown them unless they agree about the details. As we can see, Europe is also interested in finding professionals that know their business well. In the meantime, the mediators calculate their share.
“Rise up to struggle, workers!…”
In 1988-89, there were many national “chiefs” in the panorama of textile objects. The scenario of future revolution remains the same. It is joined by workers. Yet, no one explains to them what they should do after the uprising or in what a way their pay will increase. Besides, workers of the 90th were not at all “sleeping”. They still had to fulfill the plan. The impression was that it was the Ministry of Light industry that was “sleeping”. The minister of light industry shook his fist and called people up to work. Yet, the work was not an easy one. A great number of people gathered themselves at the doors of enterprise. They tried to sort out their relationship, which often led to hand-to-hand fighting.
For some reason, everything coincided “successfully”: since the 90th, the press began exaggerating… “We are on the verge of disaster!”; What should we do?” and so on and so forth. Everyone is exulted by revolution. For example, in “Bakhtrioni”, a co-worker of one of the Tbilisi Unions said: “I go on strike – and I will come back as a director! (?)”. In 1989-91, people were afflicted with wild instincts still more. There began robbery and fraud that was later attributed to “Mkhedrioni”. Today, we can see the results; enterprises without windows and doors, machines and equipment. Yet, the same picture is to be observed in the suburbs, too. However, we did not take into consideration the fact that new equipment was introduced in textile enterprises. This equipment was designed to improve the production quality… If there had been anyone who would have said that there was no need to destroy everything and that it could come in use some time later, no one would even have cared to listen to him.
“The bad thing is that you have a poor market”
At the same time, the neighbouring Turkey advances more and more. Before 1970 the Turkeys dealt principally in cattle farming and agriculture. Yet, for the past 30 years they launched industrialization process in all branches.
They equipped wool and cotton processing factories under the modern standards. According to the Turkish citizens, man-made fiber is also developed in their country (they use Iranian oil and have notably increased a range of grille cloth and threads). The imported machines were designed to produce a low-grade production that was resent to us. The Turkeys are regretful about the fact that it is impossible to sell qualitative production in our country because it has a cheap market. Silk production gives periodical employment to a small segment of unemployed population whereas the things are more difficult with the production of cotton thread and cotton goods. The Gori silk industrial complex (it produced a wide range of cotton production) was the main supplier of cotton. Today, there are not means for importing cotton from Asian republics. Where before one kilo of cotton cost 2-2,50 roubles, today its price equals 1,8 dollars, not to mention other production and non-productive costs. Today everybody has come to understand that cotton is too expensive business nowadays. The market that waited impatiently for this production was left in the past. This sphere is able to function only in case of closed boundaries.
Tbilissi factory “Krtsanisi” (a wide range of socks), the Union “Bakhtrioni”, Tskhinvali knitting mill, Gldani fancy factory, Senak Industrial complex for the production of carpet goods, the same industrial complex in Armenia, Russia and Uzbekistan use cotton thread. Everything was organized in such a way as to maintain the republics’ “unity”. Producers of cotton goods were dependent on other republics both in the production of man-made fiber and in the use of dyestuff. In reality, all republics can not often find a market for their own textile production. Cheap raw materials and auxiliary materials are necessary for this purpose. The enterprises dealing in textile production have to defend themselves from suspicious elements and robbers, and pay taxes. Yet, they still do not manage to pay out public debts. F.e a textile factory in the village of Kulash had to “fight tooth and nail” for its own building and equipment; 4,5 meters of kapron and “plush” remained in reminiscences only. Three years ago there came Indians with business offers. It seemed as if the dream would, finally, come true. They took delight in the “plush”, spoke about real markets, made calculations, and asked the producers if a salary of 300 GEL would be enough for them (?!). Finally, they went to negotiate with the government in order to clear out the terms … and have not been heard of ever since. They appeared to have found out “such a thing” that made them lose their business interest. There have recently been some Uzbeks. They liked kapron, but are still hesitating. The population of Kulashi village is still afraid that they will escape like Indians, too. The new hopes are identified with a hundred of workplaces for the village inhabitants. There has recently been an attempted burglary in the enterprise. The criminal was caught by the police. The collaborators of the factory sympathized with him, as he was an unemployed father of a poor family.
Stock exchange: search for a lawyer in a “dark room”.
Joint-stock companies consider stock exchange to be a controlling organ. According to the law “about securities” in 1998, the joint stock companies with up to 100 shareholders are not accountable to stock exchange. The Joint stock companies with more than 100 shareholders are obliged to submit a report to the stock exchange as well as to fix shares that are intended for sale. Even the enterprises that escaped destruction are not operating joint stock companies with the commodity reproduction, profit, issue of dividends because people are rather inclined to purchase shares only if they are profitable. Yet, in the meanwhile, the joint stock companies will keep books of paid and unpaid taxes (for premises, water, land, etc.) Stockjobbers do not even conceal that enterprises are literally forced to register. It is difficult to say where and what kind of deals is made for the establishment of stock exchange. Nevertheless, in 2001, 492 shares of JSC “Krtsanisi” were sold – one lari per share… 283 firms and joint stock companies constitute the trading system of stock exchange. Many people are in a rather difficult situation from the viewpoint of securities.